At the edge of the horizon

At the edge of the horizon
At the edge of Japan

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Nature is Ancient

Iriomote Island


I teach on an island called Iriomote.  It's the largest island in the Yaeyama region of Okinawa and the second largest of all the Ryukyu islands.  Iriomote is one of my favorite islands to visit, not so much because of the people I meet there (though some of my favorite schools and students are on this island), but because I feel a sense of calm on this island that I rarely experience anywhere other than here.  It's as if Iriomote has very little of the interference that exists elsewhere in the world.  By interference, I mean all of the technology that we have come to rely on that inevitably also decreases our ability to connect to the natural world.  My ability to slow down and accept things as they are is increased when I have less distractions and less of the buzz of technology all around me.

There are only 2000 inhabitants on this island, most in small towns on the Eastern or Northern part of the island.  There is one long coastline that stretches from the southeastern town of Ohara over the northern coast and ends in a very small fishing village called Shirahama.  From this point on, you have to take a ferry if you want to reach the remote villages that are on the islands off the southwest.  Apart from these villages and towns, there is only wilderness on this island.  The entire interior and most of the southern part of the island is dense jungle covering large mountain ranges and valleys.  There are beautiful waterfalls and long rivers that run through these little traveled areas.  You can hike or kayak to reach the waterfalls, but there are warnings that if you plan to go beyond the second waterfall, you must report this to the Iriomote forest service, detailing where you plan to travel and for how many days as so many people have lost their way and have never been found again.    

Ida Beach on Funauki (a small island off the coast of Iriomote)

I have yet to travel beyond the coastline (though I plan to take a kayak trip to visit the waterfalls), but even from my experiences in staying overnight on this island (I teach at two very rural locations that require me to overnight in a village on the island) the remoteness of the island affects me in a way that the other Yaeyama islands do not.  I have only felt a similar sense of the extensive power of nature in one other place in my life in a similar way and that was in the Everglades in Florida.   In both Iriomote and in the Everglades I am hit with the endlessness of time, the sense of eternity stretching out before me in the mountains that jut up all around the island.  Place has the ability to affect our sense of time and space and these two areas make me think of how ancient this world is and how time itself is, in all essence, unmeasurable in the natural world (or at least, the way humans calculate and measure time becomes insignificant).  These are areas where the significance of my life is put into perspective.  I feel the least lonely here on this island, even though most of my time spent there is by myself.  All of the small details, the quotidian, banal struggles and stressful situatons are of little importance in the overall scheme of life on earth.  Iriomote exists and its existence reminds me of this.  It also reminds me of how far humans have removed themselves from the natural world and how this removal has enabled us to destroy the natural world without feeling any sense of culpability.


Thursday, November 18, 2010

お久しぶりですね(Long time, no see!)

I sat down to write about my working trip to Iriomote island, but instead these other sentiments came out.  I've had a few difficult weeks the past month, so that may be why this entry took off in another direction.  I'll post my Iriomote entry soon. 


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A rainbow on this beautiful island
I've neglected you, dear readers and somehow in the time between my last entry and this current one, I feel like I've forgotten how to write.  In fact, I haven't felt very motivated to write anything and I've been wondering why this has happened.  I do believe it stems from an internal shift directly related to living in Japan.  One of the immediate things I can pinpoint is that I've had to confront ego-related issues with others recently and it has made me less excited about living on this island.  That being said, I think this dry period is coming from a shift in who I am, who I was and who I am becoming from my experience in this country.   I realize how critical this time is for myself to address my own flaws, my dreams and how I see the world.  I have started to see how the American Dream work ethic that has long driven me to compete and achieve step by step through life, has also contributed to a constant, unfulfillable desire to succeed.  Instead of focusing on a sense of honesty and truth in my work, focusing on enjoying everything that I've been given in life and being thankful for it, what has become the priority is focusing on what might become a success and when not feeling like things are working out for me, then feeling like a failure.   (I think there are many Americans who face this same dilemma because of this strong drive within our culture and many are unhappy as well). None of this has made me happy so it's time to shift gears. While my motivation for things seems to be slowly fading away, I am hopeful that whatever does come from this break and this shift in my priorities will be ever so better, even if it is just takes the form of a new perception of the world, of life and of the self (and even if I never produce anything else again).  That being said, I need to make certain that this lethargy isn't just laziness due to being on what seems to be somewhat like a working holiday or due to feeling helpless in a foreign land.